Southeast Asia Cruise - January-February 2016
In January and the first days of February 2016 we took a cruise aboard Holland America's MS Volendam along the coast of Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam, embarking at Singapore and ending at Hong Kong. The fourteen day cruise introduced us to many different and fascinating cultures, although I had previously been to Vietnam (I served there eleven months in 1969-70, and consulted in Hanoi on behalf of the U.N. twice in 1997).
Peoples and lands visited were exotic and photographically rich. Because we mostly took excursions offered through the ship, we had relatively little unstructured contact with the places visited (exceptions were the days spent in Singapore and Hong Kong, a cooking course in Saigon [Ho Chi Minh City], and a day spent in Hoi An south of Danang). The meals eaten ashore were wonderful (mostly Chinese in Singapore and Hong Kong; lightly spiced lunch of Thai dishes in Bangkok; native dishes in Kampot, Cambodia; the Vietnamese lunch we cooked for ourselves in Saigon; a $14 dinner of Vietnamese cuisine at Lanterns Restaurant in Nha Trang (excellent); and a delicious and inventive Vietnamese lunch at Nu Eatery in Hoi An).
Singapore -- The Lunar (Chinese) New Year was only weeks away as we arrived in Singapore. Chinatown shops were loaded with traditional red decorations.
Singapore -- At the street-side entrance to the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple in Chinatown, this large pot for offerings of incense sticks.
Singapore -- A couple with child on an outing in the Botanic Gardens.
Koh Samui, Thailand -- Koh Samui is a resort island lying east of the Thai portion of the Malay Peninsula. One of its most popular and visited sites is the so-called "Big Buddha," known locally as Wat Phra Yai.
Koh Samui, Thailand -- Tourists at the foot of the staircase leading up to the Big Buddha.
Koh Samui, Thailand -- Views of Wat Plai Laem, located only a few hundred yards from the Big Buddha. (High Dynamic Range images.)
Koh Samui, Thailand -- The statue of 18-arm Guanyin, the Goddess of Mercy and Compassion at Wat Plai Laem. (An HDR image.)
Koh Samui, Thailand -- A model (or possibly bride) working with another photographer. I am never bashful about photographing other photographers' subjects when they are working in public places. (Our guide said the woman was not Thai; how he could tell is a mystery to us Westerners, to whom all Asians look alike.)
Koh Samui, Thailand -- Detail from one of the temples at Wat Plai Laem. It may represent one of the Hindu gods, perhaps Durga or Shiva -- my ignorance precludes further speculation. I was fascinated, however, by the degree to which Hindu deities cross-link into Thai religious life. I'd like to understand it better.
Koh Samui, Thailand -- Two views of Wat Ratchathammaram, a temple built of bricks made from the indigenous red clay. The clay was then used to sculpt details on both exterior and interior. (HDR images.)
Koh Samui, Thailand -- Visitors must doff their shoes before entering temples.
Koh Samui, Thailand -- Wat Khunaram. (HDR image.)
Nathon, Koh Samui, Thailand -- As our ship's tender departed from the wharf at Nathon, I was able to capture both closeups and more distant views (next image) of the large fishing fleet and its sailors.
Nathon, Koh Samui, Thailand -- The fishing fleet. We did not see this distinctive ship design at any other port.
Laem Chabang, Thailand -- Dawn at the port that serves Bangkok.
On the road to Bangkok -- McDonald's was ubiquitous throughout southeast Asia. Note the drive-thru lane, a testament to the considerable degree of car ownership.
![Bangkok, Thailand --
The apparent poverty of these canal-side properties is belied in part by the satellite dishes,
five of them visible here. A friend who used to live in Thailand remarked, "That clong [canal] is bath
tub, sewer and water source.](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/619bd2877e4ad11ef537db29/6ada47ce-6a31-4e6a-b2be-8cf04e39376e/SE_Asia_2016_0258_Bangkok.jpg)
Bangkok, Thailand -- The apparent poverty of these canal-side properties is belied in part by the satellite dishes, five of them visible here. A friend who used to live in Thailand remarked, "That clong [canal] is bath tub, sewer and water source."
Wat Pho, Bangkok, Thailand -- "Polishing Marble" -- A non-traditional view of the temple containing the famous and massive Reclining Buddha of Wat Pho.
Wat Suthat, Bangkok, Thailand -- Devotions before the Buddha.
Wat Suthat, Bangkok, Thailand -- A small tableau behind the Buddha. (An HDR image.)
Pattaya Viewpoint, Thailand -- Our second day at Laem Chabang port we visited the resort town of Pattaya and its overlook, where is also found a small Buddhist temple. I was captivated by this young man and his cage of dozens of small birds. He sells them to worshippers who wish to practice "life release," the Buddhist belief that one can improve one's karma by releasing back to the natural world animals otherwise destined for slaughter (or, in this case, birds confined "against their will").
Pattaya Viewpoint, Thailand -- The reclining Buddha and the temple's caretaker. I separately saw him changing people's money, presumably for donations.
The Sanctuary of Truth, Pattaya, Thailand -- The massive construction, The Sanctuary of Truth, although filled with religious iconography, is not a temple. Conceived by a Thai businessman in 1981, it is not expected to be completed until 2050. In this way it is reminiscent of Gaudi's Sagrada Familia in Barcelona. (This wide-angle view does not provide a good feel for the scope and dimensions of the project.) The Sanctuary is made entirely of wood, and is constructed largely without the use of any metal (e.g., nails, bolts, etc.).
The Sanctuary of Truth, Pattaya, Thailand -- Wood carvers appeared largely to be female, some -- as here -- working in a building located adjacent to the Sanctuary.
A Pepper Plantation, On the road east from Sihanoukville, Cambodia -- Young boy among the vines.
A Pepper Plantation, On the road east from Sihanoukville, Cambodia -- A woman tending to green peppercorn vines.
A Pepper Plantation, On the road east from Sihanoukville, Cambodia -- Young women relaxing.
A Pepper Plantation, On the road east from Sihanoukville, Cambodia -- Young girl among the vines.
Kampot Town, On the road east from Sihanoukville, Cambodia -- Family watching the tourists.
Kampot Town, On the road east from Sihanoukville, Cambodia -- Child watching the tourists.
Ropang Ropov Fishing Village, On the road east from Sihanoukville, Cambodia -- Onlookers.
Ropang Ropov Fishing Village, On the road east from Sihanoukville, Cambodia -- More curious onlookers.
Ropang Ropov Fishing Village, On the road east from Sihanoukville, Cambodia -- The children remained stand-offish for awhile, but that eventually changed.
Ropang Ropov Fishing Village, On the road east from Sihanoukville, Cambodia -- A nap, or sleeping during the day in preparation for the evening's departure for the fishing grounds?
Ropang Ropov Fishing Village, On the road east from Sihanoukville, Cambodia -- A dwelling? A work building? It was unclear.
Ropang Ropov Fishing Village, On the road east from Sihanoukville, Cambodia -- Fishing boats.
Ropang Ropov Fishing Village, On the road east from Sihanoukville, Cambodia -- A friendly and welcoming smile. Our visits to these places were always brief, so there was never time to try to get to know my subjects better.
Ropang Ropov Fishing Village, On the road east from Sihanoukville, Cambodia -- The children became more comfortable and ventured near, encouraged by our guide. (Note the "24" sticker on the taller girl's shirt, given her by one of the tour members.)
Ropang Ropov Fishing Village, On the road east from Sihanoukville, Cambodia -- Preparing the evening's meal (note the rice cooker).
Ropang Ropov Fishing Village, On the road east from Sihanoukville, Cambodia -- One of the curious children. If there were an iconic photograph for our visit to Cambodia, if not for the entirety of southeast Asia, this would be it.
Ropang Ropov Fishing Village, On the road east from Sihanoukville, Cambodia -- Fishing boats lining the estuary (Gulf of Thailand just beyond, out of sight).
Ropang Ropov Fishing Village, On the road east from Sihanoukville, Cambodia -- Fisherman at work, repairing the net.
Sovann Kongkea Pagoda, On the road east from Sihanoukville, Cambodia -- We saw nowhere else effigies of praying monks associated with a Buddha-figure. (Note the missing and damaged ceiling tiles; the entire Pagoda grounds had a certain run-down look to it.)
Sovann Kongkea Pagoda, On the road east from Sihanoukville, Cambodia -- In Buddhism, they get 'em young, too.
At Sea in the Gulf of Thailand -- A trio of small fishing boats encountered as we sailed to Phu My, Vietnam.
Fishing offshore from Vung Tau, Vietnam -- They fish at night, white lights to attract regular fish, green to attract squid.
Nha Trang, Vietnam -- The (chaotic) harbor scene early the morning of our arrival.
Nha Trang, Vietnam -- A tourist boat setting out.
Nha Trang, Vietnam -- A model being photographed.
Nha Trang, Vietnam -- Rickshaw drivers awaiting fares.
Nha Trang, Vietnam -- Another photograph of someone else's photographic subjects.
Nha Trang, Vietnam -- The photographer's assistant. When I last visited Vietnam (Hanoi in 1997) I never saw women dressed like this. I'd be curious whether the liberality of her attire is a function of her youth or living in Nha Trang (being part of the previously more cosmopolitan South).
Nha Trang, Vietnam -- A typical shop, open to the air.
Nha Trang, Vietnam -- Nha Trang harbor, with new construction.
Nha Trang, Vietnam -- Is it "vamping" when you are five years old?
Nha Trang, Vietnam -- Altar and interior of Long Son Pagoda. (An HDR image.)
Nha Trang, Vietnam -- Buddha on Dragon Mountain. (An HDR image.)
Nha Trang, Vietnam -- Even in Vietnam, one sees the world through an iPhone.
Hoi An, Vietnam -- Hoi An is a popular tourist town and UNESCO World Heritage Site south of Danang. It was photography heaven.
Hoi An, Vietnam -- Dragon sculpture made of ceramics, outside Quang Trieu (Cantonese) Assembly Hall.
Hoi An, Vietnam -- Altar in the Quang Trieu (Cantonese) Assembly Hall. (An HDR image.)
Hoi An, Vietnam -- Driverless.
Hoi An, Vietnam -- Temple of the northern god Tran Vo Bac De found within the Japanese Bridge, worshipped as the god of weather and therefore important to sailors who brought the goods that made Hoi An a major Japanese and Chinese trading town of old Vietnam.
Hoi An, Vietnam -- Character.
Hoi An, Vietnam -- Another model, photographed near the Japanese Bridge.
Hoi An, Vietnam -- Model.
Hoi An, Vietnam -- Model.
Hoi An, Vietnam -- Models.
Hoi An, Vietnam -- Models or wedding couple -- unknown.
Hoi An, Vietnam -- Offering.
Hoi An, Vietnam -- They could be boys in any small town in America.
Hoi An, Vietnam -- Set pieces.
Hoi An, Vietnam -- Offerings.
Hoi An, Vietnam -- Street food tryptich.
Hoi An, Vietnam -- Street food tryptich.
Hoi An, Vietnam -- Street food tryptich.
Hoi An, Vietnam -- Street merchant. These pop-up cards were ubiquitous.
Danang, Vietnam -- Marble Mountain marble factory.
Halong Bay, Vietnam -- Halong Bay seen in early morning. Grain introduced to mask high ISO noise.
Halong Bay, Vietnam -- First of three boat vendor families. They all offered fruit, which was not especially appealing.
Halong Bay, Vietnam -- Departing after having made no sales. A friendly goodbye wave nonetheless.
Halong Bay, Vietnam -- We made landfall to visit the Thien Cung Cave, a major attraction. (The cave had essentially hollowed out the hill behind me as I took this picture.)
Halong Bay, Vietnam -- Second of our water-borne vendors.
Halong Bay, Vietnam -- Sailing among the islands in Halong Bay.
Halong Bay, Vietnam -- Home? Business? Both?
Halong Bay, Vietnam -- Third vendor. How can they possibly be making a living?
Halong Bay, Vietnam -- Moody panorama of the Halong Bay islands.
Stanley, Hong Kong Island -- Choosing a postcard.
Kowloon -- "Hello, Monkey!" Pop art anticipating Year of the Monkey, to arrive in a few days with the Lunar New Year (February 8).
Kowloon -- Photographing boys against the Hong Kong skyline.
Kowloon -- Temple Street Night Market. (An HDR image.)
Kowloon -- Temple Street Night Market. (An HDR image.)
Aberdeen, Hong Kong Island -- Entrance to the water shuttles for two competing floating restaurants: the Jumbo and the Tai Pak.
Aberdeen, Hong Kong Island -- The Jumbo Floating Restaurant seen from its water shuttle dock.
Aberdeen, Hong Kong Island -- Arriving for dinner at the Jumbo Floating Restaurant.